Sunday, May 2, 2010

Oh Joy! Hanoi (and Halong Bay)

A bit of success from the wilds of Vietnam (or how it felt after buying a new digital camera)!

Never in my life did I think the safest way to cross the street would be to walk directly into oncoming traffic, but that's just the way you do it in Hanoi. We estimated that the motorbike to car ratio must hover around 10 to 1, and the only way to make it throughout the city is to hold your breath, stare confidently at the street corner you're aiming for and walk.

Amazingly enough, you won't get hit!

Once we got the hang of crossing the streets, we set out to paint the town red. One of the best parts of Vietnam are the numerous bia hoi joints: a keg of beer on the sidewalk, surrounded by small plastic chairs and tables. With beer at only 4000 Dong a cup (or about 30 cents), we drank more than our fair share.

We also were quite excited to eat as much delicious food as possible in Anthony Bourdain's favorite country. We'd met travelers along the way who said the food was bland, or didn't meet expectations. We're happy to report, we completely disagree. Some highlights:

Pineapple! Sold everywhere, either cut up into chunks or with ridges sliced into it, to be eaten like a popsicle.

Steak and frites, served with a baguette on the side.

A delicious skillet filled with protein (read: scrapple of unknown origin, with a healthy serving of steak and eggs) and onions, to scooped into a baguette and eaten like a sandwich. Bun cha- a delicious savory broth, filled with barbequed slices of pork, to which you add rice noodles and greens.
Our favorite place was cooked in an alley and run by two squirrely sisters.


Banh xeo- a crepelike outter shell filled with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, that's rolled up in rice paper with greens, dipped into fish sauce, and eaten like a spring roll.

Although it may look like we spent all of our time eating, we actually spent much time wandering around Hanoi, visiting the famous "Hanoi Hilton," Ho Chi Minh museum and taking in several new movies at the local mall (thank goodness for air conditioning). We also went on a three day excursion to Halong Bay, via junk boat.


We spent one night on the boat and one day in Cat Ba harbor, and while we were there we went kayaking and for a hike up to the top of the mountain in Cat Ba National Park.

The hike was absurd-- far too many people all going in the same direction, with a large portion of them being Asian women in stilletos and high platform shoes. Luckily the view from the top was worth it:


Vietnam has been really fantastic so far and we're looking forward to continuing south and getting some serious beach time in.

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